To the Top and Bottom of London (and Points Beyond)
© Lynne Siemens 2004
Introduction | London | Outside London | Paris | Wish List | Tips | Resources
Contents
In the fall of 2003, my family and I lived in London. We had spent two previous falls in Oxford and decided this time that we wished to live in a large urban setting. So London, a city of 8 million people, it was. What follows is a highlight of what London and the rest of England holds for families. If you decide to go, we hope that you find your experience in UK as exciting and interesting as we did.
My husband and I returned to Europe in June, 2004, and toured some sites without our children. The following sites are places we would like to take them when we return to Europe in a year or two.
London
British Museum (free)
The British Museum opened 250 years ago at what was then the edge of London. Part of its holdings including the Sutton Hoo, Egyptian mummies, Roman coins, Rosetta stone, and many other treasures. Our family spent many hours exploring the various galleries. Exhibits are well marked and the tourbooks provide further explanation. We especially enjoyed the hands-on opportunities. Each day, volunteers had examples of the museum's holdings available for handling. We fingered Roman coins, counterfeit bills, and gold rings. The museum also has a very good bookstore filled with books for everyone. The staff is very helpful. The children's activity books are excellent learning tools. We also took part in the family activities which were both fun and educational.
National Gallery (free)
The National Gallery holds a collection of paintings and other works of art from early English history until late 1800s. More modern art is housed in other galleries. The art is divided by time period and there is plenty of opportunity to stroll through the rooms. There are activity books available that aid children's understandings of the paintings.
Natural History Museum (free)
This is another excellent museum in London. The exhibits are varied, ranging from rocks to dinosaurs and fossils. There is several good displays on evolution and Darwin's theories. We enjoyed the dinosaur exhibit. It is the kind of museum where you can go over and over again and still not see everything.
National Portrait Gallery (free)
The National Portrait Gallery focuses just on portraits. It starts with the Tudors (1500s) and works forward to today. The focus is mainly on royals and other famous people, though there are pictures of not-so-famous people as well. In the fall 2003, there is a special exhibit on servants. To aid understanding of the paintings, the gallery has put together activity knapsacks. These are available free from the information desk on the ground floor.
Globe Theatre (fee)
There is a tour and exhibition geared around the Globe theatre, famous for Shakespeare's association with it. The tour includes a talk and opportunity to take pictures within the theatre. The exhibition talks about Shakespeare's London as well as various aspects about stagecraft. There is an opportunity for children to dress in armor.
Science Museum (free)
The Science Museum is obviously geared around science and children's exploration of it. There are plenty of opportunities for children to touch, push, and try out various aspects of the exhibits, including flying a cessna. We also took in a special exhibit on the making of the Lord of the Rings.
London Transport Museum (fee, children under 16 are free)
The London Transport Museum traces the beginning of transport from the middle 1800's until today. Children can sit in an old horse-pulled bus and trolley buses and drive a subway car. The exhibits are a mixed of explanation and hands-on. One of the interesting facts is the amount of horse dung that was created daily at the turn of the 1900s.
Tower of London (fee)
The Tower of London is an exciting place to go. Please plan to spend the day here because there is so much to see. In fact, we went on two separate occasions and still did not see everything. Among the sites are the British Crown Jewels, the execution spots, and tour of the Royal Armory.
London Zoo (fee)
We spent many afternoons at the zoo, exploring the various kinds of animals. The zoo has been around for over 150 years. Harry Potter fans will recognize one of the snakes in the reptile house. Winnie-the-Pooh fans will also be pleased to see the various statutes dedicated to this famous bear. We particularly enjoyed the "Animals in Action" where the zoo keepers showed several different kinds of animals demonstrating nature behaviours (including some impressive poos.)
Bank of England Museum (free)
The Bank of England Museum traces the history of the development of British currency and the Central Bank. The highlight of the tour was touching a real brick of gold. In the "present" room, there is an opportunity to work as an exchange trader which would interest older children.
Pollock's Toy Museum (fee)
The Pollock's Toy Museum is a little museum on top of a toy store. Its collections include toys from around the world, toys for boys and girls, and toys through history. It was really interesting to see how little toys have changed over the centuries. Several board games from the Victorian times include Snakes and Ladders, Parcheesi, and Nine Man Morris (from Tudor Times). A special part of the collection was teddy bears who are over 100 years old.
Toy guns from the early 20th century
Early versions of Snakes and Ladders
Musuem of London (free)
This museum traces the history of London from the Bronze Age to today. Every era is very well developed with many models and touchable exhibits. The Victorian Age includes a General Store where the shop owner provides a talk. This museum is one that you must visit more than once. We spent two hours there and only saw the Bronze Age, Roman Age and Medieval Age. We had another 400 years of history to go.
The Kensington Gardens holds a great deal for everyone. One of the features is a statue of Peter Pan which is located by the Serpentine.
The Kensington Palace was an interesting place to visit. The tour included a show of gowns and hats of Queen Elizabeth II and some of Princess Diana's dresses. There was also a book about the rules on dressing for court.
Princess of Wales Memorial Playground (free)
Our children enjoyed this playground. It is based on Never Never Land with a pirate ship to climb on, a wood fortress to swing on, and teepees to hide in. The playground is fully enclosed so parents can relax on a bench while the children play. It closes early in the winter so get there early.
Victoria & Albert Museum (free)
We spent several hours at this museum. Its focus is on applied arts and design with a combination of displays and hands-on areas. Kate and Derek designed their coats of arms, book plates, and monograms. There was opportunity to try on period clothes and build different types of furniture. The museum has designed activity trails which helped the explain the exhibits.
Making a mirror in the early 1800s gallery
Trying on the gauntlet in the Tudor gallery
Wallace Collection (free)
The Wallace Collection is a family's collection of art, arms and armors, and other curios. It was an interesting mix. In the basement, there is a room explaining restoration of art. Part of this includes a discussion of how armor was made with several pieces for children to try on.
Westminster Abbey (fee)
Westminster Abbey is full of over 1000 years of history. All Britain's kings and queens except two have been crowned there and there is opportunity to view both the coronation chair used for most and poet's corner. One highlight of the visit is the ability to walk on a 900 year old tile floor in the Charter House. The museum is small but very intriguing. There is an opportunity to see funeral effigies from several kings and queens and some archaeological finds. There is an activity sheet for children to do.
London Eye (fee)
There is nothing better for getting a view of the city than London Eye. The ride is about 30 minutes in length and a chance to see in all directions. Make sure you choose a sunny day so that you have the best opportunity for the best view.
Standing on the Jubilee Bridge with London Eye in the background
Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (fee)
Chitty Chitty Bang Bang was magical for children and adults alike. The special effects were amazing. Through the use of lights and costumes, the car actually flew. This is an experience not to be missed. Half-price tickets for the best seats are available at Leicester Square and well worth the investment.
Greenwich is a short tube ride away from downtown London and worth the trip. We spent the day exploring the various sites related to Maritime history. Greenwich is, of course, the home of the Greenwich Mean Time, the start of time zones.
Cutty Sark (fee)
The Cutty Sark stands in dry dock in Greenwich. This boat was the fastest clipper during the tea days. We learned that a cutty sark is a short dress worn by a witch. It is immortalized in one of Robbie Burn's poems. The hold has a collection of figureheads from various ships.
Maritime Museum (free)
The Maritime Museum is a collection of exhibits relating to the sea in its various forms. There are several rooms devoted to exploration and one on passengers. The hands-on area is excellent. There is opportunity for children to load a cargo boat, operate a gunnery, and pretend to be a deepwater sea divers. We also practiced rowing a Viking boat. This museum is one that is worth more than one trip.
Royal Observatory (free)
The Royal Observatory is famous for the prime meridian which runs through it. The museum tells the history of longitude and the development of time zones. The observatory also has a planetarium show.
Hampton Court is one of Henry VIII's palaces. We had a good day there exploring the palace, finding our way through the maze, and hearing ghost stories from the security guards. It is the type of place where you need to allocate a full day. To add to the experience, ask for the activity sheets and take in some of the guided tours.
Outside London
Salisbury Cathedral (suggested donation)
Salisbury Cathedral has the tallest spire in England. It was built over the course of the 1300s after the bishop received permission to move the cathedral from Old Sarum to Salisbury. The church is open to the public with a suggested donation. Besides walking around the cathedral and viewing one of the original copies of the Magna Carta, we highly recommend the tour of the spire and attic. With a knowledgeable tour guide, you climb over 300 steps to the base of the spire and have an opportunity to view the countryside, including looking over to Old Sarum.
Old Sarum (English Heritage Site)
Old Sarum is a old Roman fort and later English settlement. The Salisbury Cathedral was originally here, but later moved because the site lacked fresh water and the weather was miserable. There are several ruins still standing with plenty room for running and limited climbing.
Old Wardour (English Heritage Site)
Old Wardour is a "romantic" ruin. It was build in medieval time and later destroyed during the English Civil War. It is also a site where there is space to run and climb.
Stonehenge (English Heritage Site)
Stonehenge, one of England's most popular sites, is a site to behold. Given the number of people who are interested in seeing it, you are limited how close you can get to the stones themselves. Still, the stones look big and heavy, even from a distance. An audio tour is included with the price to admission.
Oxford is another city worth visiting. It is the home of one of the world's oldest universities. The Oxford Story, a museum where you travel along a moving belt, explains the history of the university. You should also enjoy a stop at the Covered Market in the city centre and stop for coffee and cookies at Ben's Cookies.
Oxford Story
Staring at the River Thames, it continues on to London
The Vale of the White Horse is another interesting place to visit. The white horse is a chalk figured draw on the hillside and visible from miles around. It is not clear why it was created, only that it has been around for thousands of year. At this location, is the site where, as legend has it, St. George slew the dragon. The blood of the dragon killed the grass on the knoll, where to this day, the hilltop is bald. It was very windy the day we were there so we saw several people taking advantage of the wind to become human kites.
View of the white horse from the road
Sign explaining the white horse
Hill where St. George killed the dragon
A burial site near the Vale of the White Horse. It is also from the late bronze age.
While we were in London, we took the train up to Sheffield to visit friends. We spent time exploring castles and playgrounds.
Castleton is a small community about an hour by bus from Sheffield. While there, we explore Perveril Castle, built at the time of William the Conquer, and an old lead mine. This was the highs and lows of the trip. We climbed to the top of the hill where the castle was and descended over 500 stairs to the lead mine. To top off the day, we tromped through the sheep fields (dodging the piles).
Perveril Castle (English Heritage Site)
Speedwell Cavern (fee)
Walking
Another interesting side trip was the the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. My family toured the museum and learned much about military aircraft. They were there when the last flight of the Concord took off from New York.
Castles, as you can tell, were always at the top of our list of things to see. Kennilworth Castle is in Kennilworth, near Warwick, and is a ruin. This means that there are plenty of places to explore. There is something interesting to know about this castle. Henry VIII once flooded the plays for a special event. Warships were floated in this lake. Be sure to ask for the activity sheets.
No visit to England is complete without a stop in Stratford, home of Shakespeare and the Teletubbies. We enjoyed touring the sites and attending one of the plays at Swan Theatre. The theatre is really good and children with good theatre manners are welcome.
Standing in front of Shakespeare's birthplace
The other famous residents of Stratford
The river is full of geese who welcome food from the tourists
We also enjoyed a visit to Brighton, one of the resort towns along the southern coast. It is a short train ride from London. Even in winter, there is lots to see and do.
The Royal Pavilion built in the 1800's as a seaside residence for the royal family. It is an eclectic combination of architectural styles, including an oriental feel. It is open to the public.
While we were in London, we became big fans of a show called "Time Team". This show took the audience are an archaeological dig each night in various parts of England. One night, they talked about the big dig that was going on in Canterbury, so we decided to go. The dig was of Roman and Medieval Canterbury. While we were also there, we went to the Cathedral which is very impressive. If you go, ask for the activity sheets and look for the carved animals among the cloister seats. We also went the Museum of Canterbury, which was tucked in one of the side streets. This reinforced to us that some of the best experiences are found off the beaten path.
Dog print in a roman roof tile. It was likely left when the tiles were drying in the sun
After our time in London, we spent a week in Bristol and used it as a base to explore the western part of England. We visited Cornwall, Wales and Bath.
This is a replica that John Cabot sailed for the new world in. It landed in Newfoundland
We went for a walk on the moors of Cornwall. This area is the Cheesewring.
Granite is quarried in this area. The stones are marked for identification of the owner.
This is one of the stone formations at the top of the hill. It has been worn away by the wind and rain. Kate and Derek thought it looked like a rather pointy shoe.
We also stopped at Project Eden, a large conservatory built in an old stone quarry. The two bubbles contain a rain forest room and a temperate room with plants from both zones. We took guided tours of both rooms. Since it was the off-season, it was in effect a private tour. What follows are some pictures from there.
This is an example of some of the roads that you will encounter in Cornwall. Believe it or not, this was a two way street.
One of our stops was Chepstow Castle. Derek took on the job of guarding the castle.
We also stopped at Tintern Abbey, made famous in Woodsworth's poetry and other romantic poets and painters. The abbey fell into ruins when Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries, but much remains to explore.
We spent one day in Bath exploring the historic baths and other parts of the city.
As part of the day, we toured the Roman baths. They were discovered in the late 1800's when people in the surrounding houses were complaining of water in their basements. The city begin to dig under the houses and found the ruins. The ruins have been partially opened to the public.
Pouring a glass of the scared water
Standing in the Royal Crescent. We had seen one of the Time Team episodes
where they conducted a dig at the Royal Crescent looking for a Roman road.
We just had to go see the sight as a result.
Paris
In the middle of our trip, we took several days in Paris. Unlike the last time where we took the bus/ferry combination, this time we went in style on the Eurostar through the chunnel. It was a great experience. The trip took just over 2 1/2 hours and we left from Waterloo train station, just a short bus ride from our flat, and we got into the train station at Gare du Nord, a short cab ride from our youth hostel.
No trip to Paris is complete without a ride to the top of the Eiffel Tower. Despite the brisk temperatures, it was crowded in the tower. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the views from the top.
Rodin Museum
Standing in front of the Arc de Triumph
Climbing the stairs to the Cathedral at night
Standing at the base of the Sacred Heart. Both Kate and Derek enjoyed the carousel that you see to the left.
We enjoyed a tour with L'Open Bus Company again. (We had done a tour with them in 1998 when we were in Paris.) We found that this was a good way to see large parts of the city that we might not get to otherwise. We could get on and off at various stops.
Enjoying some tag while waiting for the bus. This is in the part across the Hotel des Invalides.
No sight-seeing trip is complete without a stop at a playground. Play is the international language and Kate and Derek found friends right away. We spent a couple of hours in the park, giving Kate and Derek time to be children without worrying about manners and being quiet. Everyone came away refreshed and ready for more sight-seeing.
Next Trip:
Despite this full list of sights, we did not see everything that which we wanted. As a result, we are already planning our next trip to England and sights beyond. Some of the things that we have added to our wish list include:
My husband and I took in an English version of "Barber of Seville" and thoroughly enjoyed it. We came away humming the songs, which one only generally does with musicals. The next trip to London will include more theatre of all sorts.
A view of Shambles, the oldest market street in London
The York Minster. There is a museum underneath the cathedral which explains the history of the building. As construction workers shored up the foundations of the church, they discovered Roman and Saxon ruins. These ruins were preserved and you can tour the undercroft today.
No trip to York is complete without a walk around the city walls.
When you climb to the top of Clifford's Tower, you can get a view of the city.
These and the following picture are rock carvings at Tanum in Sweden. The carvings date back to the Bronze Age. Given their significance, the site has been declared an United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) site.
Besides the rock carvings, the site also includes a replica of a Bronze age village and religious sites. This picture is of a religious carving in the middle of an island. The people threw sacrifices into the water.
This picture and the following two are from the Botanical Gardens in Goteburg. We were struck by the similarity in plants in this area of Sweden and our home region of Vancouver Island, British Columbia.
This is a statue of Poseidon which stands in the Gotenburg's city square. From the base of the statue, you can look down to the harbour.
This and the following picture is of the Elfsborg Fortress which is in the harbor. It was built initially as a fortress to defend the city and later converted into a prison. You need to take a ferry ride to from Gotenburg's docks to get there.
This is a picture of the museum that is on site at the fortress.
Getting Around London:
Resources (Just a few suggestions)
- Living in Britain:
- Studying and Living in the United Kingdom 2004-05. The British Council, UK.
- How to Study & Live in Britain: A Handbook for Students From Overseas. Jane Woolfenden, Plymouth, UK: Northcote House Publishers, 1990.
- Living and Working in Britain: A Survival Handbook. David Hampshire, Surrey, UK: Survival Books, 2004.
- I-uk.com -- The site is sponsored by British Council, UK Trade & Investment, and Visit Britain. The site contains information about living and working in Britain.
- Traveling with Children:
- Travel with Children: A Travel Survival Kit. Cathy Lanigan, Hawthorn, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 2002
- Traveling with Children: A Survival Guide for Parents. Dr. David Haslam, Great Britain: MacDonald & Co. ltd., 1988.
- Trouble-Free Travel with Children: Over 700 Helpful Hints for Parents on the Go. Vicki Lansky, Deep Haven, MN: The Book Peddlers, 2003.
To the Top and Bottom of London (and Points Beyond). [Full Stride Publications, Baby Steps 2]. Lynne Siemens.
Copyright (c) 2004- by the author, all rights reserved, and may be used and shared in accordance with the fair-use provisions of U.S. copyright law. Archiving and redistribution for profit, or republication of this text in any medium, requires the consent of the author and Full Stride Publications.
[Last updated: Wednesday, October 06, 2004 ]
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